Koji is the starting point for most of the great Japanese ferments. It is rice (or barley, or soybeans) grown with a friendly mould, Aspergillus oryzae, until the grains are wrapped in white mycelium and full of enzymes. Growing it takes about two days and steady warmth, and once you can make koji you can make miso, amazake, shio koji and more.
What you need
How to make rice koji
- 1Wash and soak Rinse the rice until the water runs nearly clear, then soak it for 6–12 hours or overnight.
- 2Drain Drain in a colander for at least an hour. The grains should feel damp but not wet on the outside.
- 3Steam Steam the rice in a cloth-lined steamer for 45–60 minutes, until the grains are cooked through but firm and separate. A grain pressed between your fingers should squash to a translucent paste without being sticky.
- 4Cool and inoculate Spread the rice on a clean cloth or tray and let it cool to about 35°C. Sprinkle half the spores over it, mix thoroughly with clean hands, then add the rest and mix again.
- 5Incubate Gather the rice into a mound in a cloth-lined tray, wrap it in a damp cloth, and keep it at 28–32°C with high humidity.
- 6First mix: 18–24 hours You will see faint white threads, the rice will start to clump and warm up, and it will smell sweet. Break up the clumps, spread the rice 3–5 cm deep, and draw furrows through it with your fingers to release heat.
- 7Second mix: 30–36 hours Break it up and re-furrow again. The rice now makes its own heat; keep it between 30 and 38°C by lowering the incubator temperature or opening it.
- 8Harvest: 40–48 hours When the grains are covered in white, velvety mould and smell of chestnuts, the koji is done. Break it up and spread it out to cool so it stops growing.
Good koji and bad koji
Watch for
- Overheating is the most common failure. Check the temperature inside the rice, not just the room, especially after the first day.
- Too wet rice grows bacteria instead of mould. Drain well and steam rather than boil.
- Too dry air gives patchy growth on the surface only. Keep a damp cloth over the rice.
Storing and using koji
Fresh koji keeps about a week in the fridge and several months in the freezer. Dried below about 45°C, it keeps in an airtight jar in the pantry.

